Painting Articles
1. Choose Your Colours with Sun Exposure in Mind
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Not all colours fade at the same rate, and understanding why helps you make smarter choices from the outset.
Dark colours absorb more heat than light colours. While this gives them a rich, striking appearance, it also means they are more vulnerable to moisture damage and photodegradation — the additional heat they absorb accelerates the breakdown of pigment over time. Light colours, by contrast, reflect rather than absorb heat and UV radiation, which is why they tend to hold their tone longer, particularly on sun-exposed surfaces.
For walls that receive direct sunlight — south or west-facing exterior walls, or interior walls adjacent to large windows — lighter shades are the more durable choice. This does not mean limiting yourself to a palette of whites and creams. Within the lighter end of any colour family, there is a wide range of tones to work with. A soft sage holds better than a deep forest green; a warm dusty pink lasts longer than a saturated magenta.
For areas that receive little direct sunlight — internal walls, north-facing rooms, covered exterior surfaces — deeper colours are a more viable option, and the contrast between lighter sun-exposed surfaces and richer shaded ones can create a genuinely considered palette throughout the home.
2. Match the Paint to the Surface
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One of the most straightforward causes of premature paint fade — and deterioration more broadly — is using the wrong type of paint for the surface being painted. Interior and exterior paints are formulated differently for good reason, and using them interchangeably leads to poor results.
Exterior paints are designed to withstand UV exposure, moisture, temperature fluctuation and biological growth. They contain binders and additives that interior paints do not, specifically because exterior surfaces face conditions that interior walls never encounter. Applying interior paint to an outdoor surface will result in rapid fading, peeling and chalking — the powdery surface residue that forms when exterior paint degrades — typically within a single wet season in Singapore.
Surface material also matters. Alkali-sensitive paints should not be applied to highly alkaline surfaces such as masonry or fresh concrete, as the alkalinity attacks the binder and causes the paint to break down prematurely. Check the product specifications before purchasing — the paint tin and product catalogue will indicate the recommended surfaces and environments for each formulation. Acrylic and latex paints are generally the most durable and versatile options for exterior surfaces, offering strong adhesion, fast drying times and good resistance to Singapore's high-humidity conditions.
3. Invest in Quality Paint
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Across all three factors, paint quality has the single greatest impact on how well colour holds over time. Higher-quality paints contain more pigment and better-grade binders, which means they adhere more effectively to the surface and resist the processes that cause fading — photodegradation, chalking and moisture damage — far more effectively than budget alternatives.
Chalking, in particular, is worth understanding. It is the gradual erosion of the paint's surface layer into a fine powder — visible as a chalky residue on exterior walls — caused by UV degradation of the binder. It is one of the primary mechanisms through which exterior paint loses its colour and finish over time. Quality exterior paints are formulated with chalking-resistant binders that slow this process significantly.
Beyond fade resistance, a high-quality paint brings other practical benefits: better coverage, faster drying times, lower VOC emissions, and greater resistance to cracking — all of which matter in Singapore's climate, where the combination of intense UV radiation, high humidity and frequent heavy rain puts paint under considerable stress. Nippon Paint's exterior range is formulated specifically for these conditions, offering durability and colour retention suited to tropical weather year-round.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why is my interior wall paint fading even though it is indoors?
Interior paint can fade due to prolonged exposure to direct sunlight through windows, particularly on west-facing walls that catch the afternoon sun. UV radiation passes through glass and has the same photodegradation effect on paint as direct outdoor exposure, just more slowly. Using a paint with UV-resistant pigments, or hanging window treatments that filter direct sunlight, can significantly slow the process.Do dark colours fade faster than light colours?
Yes, in most conditions. Dark colours absorb more heat and UV radiation, which accelerates the breakdown of pigment over time. They are also more visibly affected by fading — a colour that shifts two shades lighter is far more noticeable in a deep navy or forest green than in a pale grey or cream. For sun-exposed surfaces, lighter shades are the more durable choice.What is paint chalking and how do I prevent it?
Chalking is the gradual erosion of a paint's surface layer into a powdery residue, caused by UV degradation of the paint's binder. It is most common on exterior walls and is one of the primary ways paint loses its colour and finish over time. It is best prevented by using a high-quality exterior paint with chalking-resistant binders, and by applying paint to a properly primed and prepared surface.Can I use interior paint on exterior walls?
No. Interior and exterior paints are formulated for very different conditions. Interior paint lacks the UV resistance, moisture resistance and flexibility required for outdoor surfaces, and will fade, crack and peel far more quickly than a dedicated exterior paint. Always use a paint formulated for the specific environment it will be exposed to.How long should good quality exterior paint last in Singapore?
With proper surface preparation, the right paint for the surface type, and appropriate top coat protection, a quality exterior paint should maintain its colour and finish for five to eight years in Singapore's climate. Cheaper paints, improper application or skipped preparation steps can reduce this to two years or less.What is the best exterior paint for Singapore's weather?
The best exterior paint for Singapore is one that combines UV resistance, moisture resistance, alkali resistance and anti-fungal properties — given the combination of intense sun, heavy rainfall and high humidity that accelerates paint deterioration here. Nippon Paint's exterior range, including Weatherbond Algaeguard, is specifically formulated for these conditions.The Right Choices Make the Difference
Paint fading is not inevitable — it is mostly the result of mismatched products, poorly suited colour choices for sun exposure, or paint quality that is not up to the conditions it is facing. Choose colours that suit the light conditions of each wall, match your paint to the surface and environment, and invest in a quality product formulated for Singapore's climate. These three decisions, made before a brush touches the wall, are what determine how long your paint job actually lasts. For help choosing the right exterior or interior paint for your home, visit nipponpaint.com.sg or speak to a consultant at your nearest Nippon Paint Colour Centre. [post_title] => How To Prevent Wall Paint From Fading Out [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => how-to-prevent-wall-paint-fading [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2026-05-14 16:38:42 [post_modified_gmt] => 2026-05-14 08:38:42 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => http://www.nipponpaint.com.sg/?post_type=articles&p=2203 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => articles [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [1] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 2222 [post_author] => 1 [post_date] => 2016-07-14 18:34:46 [post_date_gmt] => 2016-07-14 10:34:46 [post_content] =>
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Picture this: you step into your freshly painted home and the walls look immaculate. The living room feels lighter, the kitchen is transformed, and the whole space feels renewed. You're quietly pleased with yourself.
Then you peek into the toilet, and there it is — the exposed pipe under the sink, looking like it belongs in a different decade. Or you swing open the main gate and wince at the flaking rust you somehow managed to ignore throughout the entire planning process.
It happens to almost everyone. The excitement of a new paint job tends to focus attention on the big, obvious surfaces — walls and ceilings — while some of the most visible details get missed entirely.
Here are five spots that homeowners in Singapore most commonly overlook, plus exactly how to tackle each one.
1. The Main Gate
Source: Brian Jeffery Beggerly/Flickr
Your main gate is one of the first things guests and passers-by see — and ironically, one of the surfaces most likely to be overlooked when planning a home repaint. Years of Singapore's humidity and rain are unkind to metal, and a rusty, flaking gate can undermine even the most beautifully painted home beyond it.
How to repaint your main gate:
- Remove loose rust and old paint with a hard wire brush or sandpaper, working in the direction of the metal grain
- Apply at least one coat of a rust-inhibiting metal primer, ensuring full coverage including corners and joints. Nippon Paint Metallux is a strong choice here — it acts as both a primer and topcoat for ferrous metals like cast iron and aluminium, is quick-drying, and provides active corrosion protection
- Once the primer is fully dry, apply two coats of a quality metal topcoat. Bodelac 9000 delivers a durable, high-gloss finish suited for external metal surfaces
- Allow each coat to dry fully before applying the next
2. Exposed Pipes
Source: Islxndis/Flickr
Exposed pipes are often treated as an eyesore to be hidden, but with a little creativity they can become a genuine design feature. Painting them in a contrasting or complementary colour to the surrounding wall can turn an awkward detail into a deliberate style choice — particularly effective in industrial, retro, or eclectic interiors.
If you'd rather they blend in, painting them the same colour as the wall is equally valid and visually much cleaner than leaving bare or mismatched metal.
For metal pipes, use a metal-appropriate paint like Aqua Bodelac — a water-based enamel that's low-odour, low-VOC, and suitable for interior metal and wood surfaces. Lightly sand and clean the pipe surface before painting for the best adhesion.
Design idea: Matte black pipes against a sage green or deep navy wall are a particularly popular combination in 2026's industrial-inspired interiors.
3. Window Grilles
Source: Vadim Kozlovsky/Shutterstock.com
Window grilles are exposed to the elements constantly — sun, rain, and humidity work on them year-round — and rust is almost inevitable on older metal grilles that haven't been maintained. Fortunately, the process for repainting them is the same as for the main gate.
- Remove rust and loose paint with a wire brush or sandpaper
- Apply a coat of Nippon Paint Metallux as a rust-inhibiting primer/topcoat base
- Finish with two coats of your chosen metal topcoat — Bodelac 9000 in the appropriate colour
4. Outlet Covers and Switch Plates
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A yellowed or grimy electrical outlet cover is a small detail that registers subconsciously — it's one of those things you may not notice in isolation but that contributes to a room feeling old or tired.
A fresh coat of paint over outlet covers and switch plates instantly refreshes them and ensures they match your newly painted walls perfectly. Remove them from the wall before painting for a neater finish, and use a small brush to apply a smooth, even coat in your chosen wall colour.
Safety note: Always switch off the power at the circuit breaker before removing outlet covers. Allow the paint to dry completely before reinstalling.
5. Sanitary Branch Pipes and the Walls Behind Them
Source: Spiro Bolos/Flickr
The pipes behind your toilet and under sinks are often ignored simply because they're awkward to reach and easy to overlook — but they're visible, and a fresh coat of paint makes a real difference to how clean and finished a bathroom feels.
For a seamless look, paint the pipes and the wall behind them in the same colour as the rest of the bathroom — they'll virtually disappear. If you prefer a more unconventional approach, use a bold accent colour on the pipes for an intentional, design-forward statement that turns a functional necessity into a visual feature.
Use Aqua Bodelac for metal pipes in bathroom spaces — its water resistance, low odour, and ease of application with a brush make it well suited for these tight, often poorly ventilated spaces.
How Much Paint Will You Need?
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Once you've identified all the areas you plan to paint — including those you might otherwise have missed — the next step is working out how much paint to buy. Getting this right matters: too little and you'll face colour inconsistencies between batches; too much and you'll have leftover paint to manage.
The calculation:
- Measure the height and width of each surface to be painted
- Subtract the area of any doors, windows, or features you're not painting
- Multiply the total paintable area (in m²) by the number of coats required
- Divide the result by the coverage rate shown on your chosen paint tin (expressed as m²/litre)
What to Do with Leftover Paint
Before you wrap up, set aside any leftover paint for future touch-ups. Store it in a sealed, labelled tin in a cool, shaded area. Water-based paints keep well for up to 5 years when properly sealed — see Nippon Paint's Disposal and Storage Guide for full guidance on storage and responsible disposal. Leftover paint also works beautifully for small creative projects — old lamp bases, picture frames, plant pots, and decorative trays can all be refreshed with a single coat for a personalised, coordinated touch throughout your home. With these often-forgotten spots factored in, your home repaint will be genuinely complete — not just the walls. For a truly fuss-free experience, Nippon Paint's Professional Painting Service handles everything from site inspection to final touch-up. Visit nipponpaint.com.sg/professional-painting-service/ to enquire or get a quotation. [post_title] => 5 Places You Probably Forgot to Factor in Paint For [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => places-you-probably-forgot-to-paint [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2026-04-27 15:42:40 [post_modified_gmt] => 2026-04-27 07:42:40 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => http://www.nipponpaint.com.sg/?post_type=articles&p=2222 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => articles [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [2] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 2187 [post_author] => 1 [post_date] => 2016-07-14 18:34:32 [post_date_gmt] => 2016-07-14 10:34:32 [post_content] =>Why Paint Labels Are So Confusing — and How to Read Them
Source: Daylightistanbul Studio — Shutterstock
Walking into a paint store for the first time can be disorienting. The shelves are lined with hundreds of cans, each labelled with shade names you have never heard of and technical terms that seem to assume existing knowledge — primer, sealer, undercoat, Medifresh, Weatherbond.
Understanding what these terms actually mean is not just useful trivia. Choosing the wrong product for a surface or skipping a step entirely are among the most common reasons a DIY paint job looks uneven, peels early or needs to be redone within a year. This guide breaks down the ten most important paint terms in plain language, so you can walk into any paint store — or browse any product page — with confidence.
1. Primer
What it is: The first coat of paint applied directly to a bare or prepared surface, before any colour coat goes on.
A primer does several things at once: it seals the surface to prevent subsequent coats from absorbing unevenly, improves adhesion so the top coat bonds properly and lasts longer, and in some formulations, provides moisture resistance or stain-blocking properties. Skipping the priming step is one of the most common DIY mistakes — and one of the most visible, because an unprimed surface tends to produce a patchy, uneven finish regardless of how many top coats are applied.
Before applying any primer, ensure the surface is thoroughly clean and completely dry. Dust, grease and moisture all compromise adhesion.
Recommended product: Nippon Paint Aqua Primer Sealer Undercoat — a water-based, all-in-one pre-coat suitable for a wide range of surfaces including concrete, fibreboard, wood, metal and plastic.
2. Sealer
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What it is: A specialised type of primer designed to recondition uneven or porous surfaces before a top coat is applied.
Sealers are particularly important when painting over walls that have had cracks or holes filled with putty. Putty is significantly more porous than the surrounding concrete, so without a sealer, the top coat absorbs at different rates across the wall — resulting in visible patches and an uneven sheen. A sealer evens out the porosity of the entire surface, giving the top coat a consistent base to adhere to.
Recommended product: Nippon Paint Expresskote Sealer — a fast-drying sealer that prevents chalking and enhances top coat adhesion, ideal for walls that have been filled or patched.
3. Undercoat
Source: Phattara Heesawat — Shutterstock
What it is: An intermediate coat applied after priming and before the top coat, primarily used on timber and metallic surfaces.
For standard interior walls, modern primers have largely replaced the need for a separate undercoat. However, for wood and metal surfaces, an undercoat remains important — it seals surface imperfections, provides a uniform base for the top coat and, critically, offers a protective barrier against moisture and corrosion.
If you are painting timber furniture, wooden doors, window frames or metal railings, do not skip this step.
Recommended product: Nippon Paint Bodelac 9000 Undercoat — a high-opacity, high-solid undercoat that conceals surface imperfections and protects timber and metallic surfaces before the top coat is applied.
4. Top Coat
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What it is: The final layer of paint — the colour and finish you actually see on your walls or surfaces.
The top coat is what most people think of when they think of paint. It comes in a wide range of sheens — matte, eggshell, satin, semi-gloss and gloss — each suited to different rooms and surfaces. For the best coverage and depth of colour, apply the top coat in two coats rather than one, allowing the first coat to dry fully before applying the second.
Nippon Paint offers a comprehensive range of top coats for interior and exterior walls, as well as specialised formulations for timber and metal surfaces.
5. Odour-less (Low-VOC) Paint
What it is: Paint formulated to emit near-zero levels of volatile organic compounds (VOCs) — the chemical compounds responsible for the strong smell associated with conventional paint.
VOCs are not just unpleasant — in enclosed spaces, prolonged exposure can irritate the eyes, nose and throat, and in high concentrations may trigger respiratory issues. In Singapore's compact, air-conditioned apartments, VOC levels can accumulate more than in naturally ventilated homes, making low-VOC formulations especially worth considering for bedrooms, children's rooms and spaces with limited airflow.
Odour-less paint performs identically to conventional paint in terms of coverage and durability — the only difference is the absence of fumes during and after application.
Recommended product: Nippon Paint Odour-less All-in-One — reduces VOC levels to near zero, making it comfortable to paint and re-occupy rooms quickly without the need for extended ventilation periods.
6. Anti-Mould Paint
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What it is: Paint containing fungicide additives that actively inhibit the growth of mould and mildew on painted surfaces.
In Singapore's year-round heat and humidity, mould is a persistent problem — particularly on ceilings in bathrooms, kitchens and poorly ventilated rooms. Standard paint offers no protection against mould growth; once moisture penetrates the surface, mould can develop beneath and behind the paint layer, leading to discolouration, bubbling and eventually structural damage if left untreated.
Anti-mould paint addresses this at the surface level, providing an active barrier that prevents mould from taking hold.
Recommended product: Nippon Paint Odour-less Anti-Mould Ceiling White — formulated specifically for high-moisture areas such as kitchens and bathrooms, protecting ceilings against mould and mildew.
7. Easy Wash / Washable Paint
Source: Alena Ozerova — Shutterstock
What it is: Paint with a durable, stain-resistant finish that allows marks and dirt to be wiped or washed off without damaging the painted surface.
Standard emulsion paint is not designed to withstand repeated scrubbing — washing a marked wall too aggressively can remove the paint along with the dirt. Washable paint uses a tougher resin that holds up to cleaning, making it a practical choice for households with young children, high-traffic corridors, kitchens and anywhere that wall contact is frequent.
Recommended product: Nippon Paint EasyWash & Clean (Low Sheen) — resists stains and can be wiped clean without compromising the painted finish.
8. Anti-Bacterial Paint (Medifresh)
What it is: Paint infused with an anti-bacterial formula that actively inhibits the growth of harmful bacteria on painted surfaces.
Nippon Paint 3-in-1 Medifresh provides lasting anti-bacterial protection — up to five years — against common pathogens including MRSA, E. coli and Staphylococcus aureus. These bacteria are associated with a range of illnesses including respiratory infections, gastroenteritis and skin conditions.
Anti-bacterial paint is particularly worth considering for homes with young children, elderly occupants or anyone with a compromised immune system, as well as for kitchens, bathrooms and other high-contact surfaces.
Recommended product: Nippon Paint 3-in-1 Medifresh — anti-bacterial protection lasting up to five years against MRSA, E. coli and Staphylococcus aureus.
9. Weatherproof Exterior Paint (Weatherbond)
Source: Andrew Lam — Shutterstock
What it is: Heavy-duty exterior paint formulated to withstand prolonged exposure to rain, humidity, UV radiation, dirt, fungus and algae.
Standard interior paint will fail rapidly on exterior surfaces — it is not designed to handle the thermal expansion and contraction caused by temperature changes, or the sustained moisture exposure from rain. In Singapore's climate, exterior paint also needs to resist algae and fungal growth, both of which are accelerated by warmth and humidity.
A quality exterior paint should protect your walls for several years without cracking, peeling or discolouring — reducing the frequency and cost of repainting.
Recommended product: Nippon Paint Weatherbond Algaeguard — a high-performance exterior paint offering tough protection against Singapore's weather, with built-in resistance to algae and fungus, and a durable, lustrous finish.
10. Weatherproof Exterior Paint (Weatherbond)
What it is: Heavy-duty exterior paint formulated to withstand prolonged exposure to rain, humidity, UV radiation, dirt, fungus and algae. Standard interior paint will fail rapidly on exterior surfaces — it is not designed to handle the thermal expansion and contraction caused by temperature changes, or the sustained moisture exposure from rain. In Singapore's climate, exterior paint also needs to resist algae and fungal growth, both of which are accelerated by warmth and humidity. A quality exterior paint should protect your walls for several years without cracking, peeling or discolouring — reducing the frequency and cost of repainting. Recommended product: Nippon Paint Weatherbond Algaeguard — a high-performance exterior paint offering tough protection against Singapore's weather, with built-in resistance to algae and fungus, and a durable, lustrous finish.Quick Reference: Which Paint Product Do You Need?
| Situation | Product to use |
|---|---|
| Bare wall before painting | Primer (Nippon Aqua Primer Sealer Undercoat) |
| Wall with filled cracks or putty patches | Sealer (Nippon Expresskote Sealer) |
| Timber or metal surfaces | Undercoat (Nippon Bodelac 9000) |
| Bedroom or enclosed space | Odour-less paint (Nippon Odour-less All-in-One) |
| Bathroom or kitchen ceiling | Anti-mould paint (Nippon Odour-less Anti-Mould Ceiling White) |
| High-traffic walls or homes with children | Washable paint (Nippon EasyWash & Clean) |
| Homes with young children or elderly | Anti-bacterial paint (Nippon 3-in-1 Medifresh) |
| Any exterior surface | Weatherproof paint (Nippon Weatherbond Algaeguard) |
Frequently Asked Questions
What is the difference between a primer and a sealer?
A primer is the first coat applied to a bare or cleaned surface to improve adhesion and provide a stable base for subsequent coats. A sealer is a type of primer specifically designed to even out the porosity of uneven or patched surfaces — particularly useful on walls where cracks or holes have been filled with putty. In practice, many modern primers combine both functions.Do I always need to use a primer before painting?
For most surfaces, yes. Priming improves adhesion, extends the life of the top coat and produces a more even finish. The exception is if you are applying a fresh coat of the same paint over a surface in good condition — in that case, a primer may not be necessary. Always prime bare plaster, new concrete, repaired surfaces and any surface that has been previously painted in a significantly different colour or sheen.What is the difference between an undercoat and a primer?
A primer is the first coat applied directly to the bare surface. An undercoat is applied after priming, as an intermediate layer, primarily on timber and metal surfaces to provide additional opacity and surface protection before the top coat. For standard interior walls, modern primers typically eliminate the need for a separate undercoat.What does VOC mean in paint, and is it dangerous?
VOC stands for volatile organic compound — chemical particles released as paint dries. At high concentrations, VOCs can irritate the respiratory system and, in the case of prolonged exposure, may pose broader health risks. In Singapore's well-sealed, air-conditioned apartments, VOC levels can build up more than in naturally ventilated homes. Low-VOC or zero-VOC paints — such as Nippon Paint Odour-less All-in-One — are the safest choice for enclosed spaces.How many coats of top coat should I apply?
For most surfaces, two coats of top coat is the standard recommendation. A single coat rarely provides sufficient coverage or depth of colour, and often leaves underlying colour or surface variation showing through. Allow the first coat to dry completely before applying the second.What type of paint should I use for exterior walls in Singapore?
In Singapore's climate, exterior walls need a paint that can withstand heavy rainfall, high UV exposure, humidity and biological growth (algae and mildew). A dedicated weatherproof exterior paint — such as Nippon Paint Weatherbond Algaeguard — is the appropriate choice. Standard interior paint will deteriorate rapidly on exterior surfaces and is not suitable for outdoor use.Paint Smarter, Not Harder
The difference between a paint job that looks professional and one that disappoints almost always comes down to product selection and preparation — not technique. Understanding what each product does, and why the preparation steps matter, gives you a significant head start before you pick up a brush. For personalised advice on the right products for your specific surfaces and project, visit nipponpaint.com.sg or speak to a consultant at your nearest Nippon Paint Colour Centre. [post_title] => 10 Painting Terms You Should Know Before Buying Paint [post_excerpt] => [post_status] => publish [comment_status] => closed [ping_status] => closed [post_password] => [post_name] => types-of-paint-you-must-know [to_ping] => [pinged] => [post_modified] => 2026-05-13 17:02:12 [post_modified_gmt] => 2026-05-13 09:02:12 [post_content_filtered] => [post_parent] => 0 [guid] => http://www.nipponpaint.com.sg/?post_type=articles&p=2187 [menu_order] => 0 [post_type] => articles [post_mime_type] => [comment_count] => 0 [filter] => raw ) [3] => WP_Post Object ( [ID] => 2175 [post_author] => 1 [post_date] => 2016-07-12 13:37:23 [post_date_gmt] => 2016-07-12 05:37:23 [post_content] =>
So you've moved all your furniture back into place after a long weekend of painting. The house looks clean and new and you smile at the awesome job well done. But then you take a closer look and you find a crack in the paint, and then another, and even more!
Having cracks appear on your wall may just be a cosmetic problem, or it could indicate a more serious, structural issue. The first step to fixing the problem is identifying which one it is:
Structural damage vs hairline cracks
A good indicator of structural damage is looking at how long and large the wall crack is. If it is substantial (more than 1.5 inches wide), and the crack persists even after numerous repair jobs, or you have difficulty closing your windows and doors, it might signal a structural problem. At this stage, it is best to rope in a professional to assess the situation and handle the job for you.
Non-structural cracks—hairline cracks—however, are more common in most homes and are sometimes unavoidable. They tend to surface near windows and doors and can appear due to a variety of reasons.
Identifying the cause and learning how to repair the crack properly can help you avoid similar situations in future.
Why do cracks occur on walls?
Here are a few common reasons:- Contraction and expansion: The materials (paint, plaster) that make up your wall contract and expand because of fluctuations in humidity levels and temperature changes. This is usually a problem if the wall is within a room that is periodically air-conditioned or it faces the afternoon sun quite a bit. The movement of contraction and expansion can cause hairline cracks to appear.
- Low quality paint: Inferior quality paint results in poor paint adhesion on your wall, which leads to cracks over time. In addition, using different paints for each paint coat can also cause cracks on the wall. There's no way around it! Keep your paint consistent and use a high-quality product. It might hurt a little now, but it's better than suffering for it down the road.
- Impatience during plasterwork: Sometimes, patience is the best way to go. Not letting cement plaster completely dry before applying paint is actually quite a common factor attributed to cracks. So put on some Netflix and chill out! It'll be better than buying new paint to redo your walls.
- Poor paint job: Painting an entire house can be a huge amount of work, and it can be tempting to rush through it. But mistakes like missing out layers, or not letting previous layers completely dry can hamper your overall efforts. A good paint job takes time, so plan around it!
Get cracking: how do we resolve hairline cracks?
If you find a hairline crack, don't panic! While you can engage a contractor to do the job, most hairline cracks can be resolved with a DIY job.
It might seem counter-productive, but you should first create a deeper hairline crack (using a scraper, screwdriver or utility knife) before starting the repair work. This “opens up” the crack so that you can clean out the loose concrete, paint, debris or old filler (using a cloth, dry brush or vacuum) before mending. This also helps the filling solution to properly fill the insides of the crack.
After cleaning the crack, fill it with filling solution/joint compound. Make sure the filler covers the entire crack.
Even out the surface with your scraper and let the filling dry out for a day. Keep point 3 and 4 in mind. Don't rush the process!
Once the surface has dried, sand it down so the surface is completely smooth and even.
Then apply paint. If you are applying two coats, always make sure the first coat has properly dried before applying the second coat. A good paint option is Nippon Paint 3-in-1 Medifresh, which is specially formulated to cover hairline cracks.
To find out more about how to use paint to achieve your desired looks, check out how to choose the right paints for your wall and how to use colours effectively.
[post_title] => Not All It's Cracked Up To Be: Cracks on the Wall and What to Do With Them
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